What am I supposed to feel when the server walks towards me with an amuse-bouche, a cold-smoked L'Arpège egg with beluga caviar? Lifting off the clear glass cloche, he swirls the smoke up and into my nostrils.
It smells like fire.
It looks like an egg with a hole in the top.
This preparation has been called “the most exquisite egg dish in the world.” The egg is sous vide, the sherry vinegar is aged, the fleur de sel is hand-harvested. A lot of passion went into that egg, and as a diner you pay for that passion. You also pay for the freshly ironed tablecloths, for the meticulously polished silverware, and for the waiter to scrape away your crumbs with that little metal thing.
You can tell your friends you went there, so it’s worth it.
You can post photos of the meal on Instagram, so it’s worth it.
The food tastes good, so it’s worth it.
Still, though, when the number at the bottom of the bill gets high enough, I can’t help but leave feeling uncertain.
I can tell you exactly how I felt watching the waitress walk towards me with what might have been the most beautiful cheeseburger I’ve ever seen. Yellow cheese draped over the thick, dry-aged patty like a gooey, processed dairy blanket. They say American cheese is the best cheese for cheeseburgers “because it melts without splitting.” I say I agree. A lot of passion went into that burger, and there’s no bullshit to get in the way of my enjoying it.
The feeling of waiting was pure anticipation, my head turning with each burger that walked past our table.
The feeling of eating was pure bliss - realizing with each bite that it was living up to the hype.
The-post meal was pure satisfaction, nostalgically remembering when I’ve eaten a burger that transcendent. And wondering when I may be lucky enough to eat another.
The burger was good, and it was worth it. I have no doubts.
You can read the full story on Red Hook Tavern below, and stay tuned for next week’s special edition about my Lebanese New Year’s celebration in Paris.
Served,
The Supper Club
Dante, our waiter at Chambers, said that Red Hook Tavern might just have the best burger in all of New York City. After hearing that, we knew we needed to head out to Brooklyn to try it for ourselves. We really wanted to go with Dante, but our schedules couldn’t seem to line up. Sadly, we had to make the journey without him. As soon as we got off the train and poked our heads above the sidewalk, we were surprised at how quaint and laid back the neighborhood felt. Red Hook Tavern fits in perfectly. It has a classic, old school beer and whiskey drinking feel - with some slightly modern twists, like orange wine and indie rock. Instead of being dark and dusty, this tavern gets a lot of natural light through their logo-stained front window. Grant had a “physical yearning” to sit at the couple of stools that look out that window onto the street. There’s a dark wooden bar that runs along the entire left side of the restaurant, and small tables run along the right side. The floral wallpaper towards the back reminded me of my grandparent’s house, but the food coming out of the kitchen was nothing like what my grandma would make.
Riya, our waitress that afternoon, taught us all about the restaurant and the surrounding area. She’s been working there for around 2.5 years, so has been with the restaurant practically since its founding in 2019. We ordered four things off the lunch menu that she recommended; it’s shorter than the dinner menu with only eight items - six that are more like appetizers and two mains. Our order was definitely over ambitious, and we left feeling like we had just lost a major league eating competition. According to Riya, the owner Billy Durney was “inspired by Peter Luger” when he founded Red Hook Tavern. He’s also the man behind Hometown BBQ, so the meat quality was a given, but he really nailed the atmosphere of classic, Americana charm that Peter Luger is known for. The menu is full of timeless dishes like steaks, roasted chicken, and whole seafood - but Red Hook Tavern is likely most known for their namesake burger. It will always be on the menu, and you should not come here without ordering (at least) one.
Riya recommended the below, and we ordered the stuff in bold.
Starters
East Coast Oysters - seasonal accompaniments
Shrimp Cocktail - Bun’s fancy cocktail sauce, Old Bay sprinkle
Country Ham Croquettes - House smoked ham, 1 year aged cheddar, rye crumbs, dijonaise (they were out of these)
French Onion Soup
Romaine Wedge Salad - Bleu cheese, pickled mustard seeds, sourdough crumbs, Nueske’s Applewood smoked bacon with buttermilk herb dressing
Mains
Fish and Chips - Tartar sauce, malt vinegar
Dry Aged Red Hook Tavern Burger - American cheese, white onion, frites
Red Hook Tavern isn’t just a burger restaurant - not even close. They have really exceptional food across the board. Their wedge salad is probably the best riff on that dish I’ve ever had. It comes with a slab of nicely rendered, thick-cut bacon on top, while being perfectly dressed and easier to eat than a traditional wedge. The onion soup had some serious depth of flavor and wasn’t overly greasy or cheesy. The fish and chips, Riya’s personal favorite, were fried hard, but the fish stayed flaky and moist inside of the beer batter. The tartar sauce was herby, and a nice, zesty complement to what can often be a heavy dish. Last but not least, the burger was truly a show stopper. It’s, aesthetically speaking, one of the most beautiful burgers I’ve ever seen. But it has the taste to go with the looks. Perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned, well toasted bun. This just might be the best burger in all five boroughs.
French Onion Soup
I’m kind of a French onion soup snob - just because I know how good it can be when done right. A lot of times places gunk everything up with too much cheese, and it becomes a greasy, diluted mess. I’m happy to report that Red Hook Tavern is not one of those places. Their beef broth is complex, onions are well caramelized, and the funk from the cheese is an appreciated complement to both. This is the perfect dish for a cold day, and the leftover broiled cheese on the outside of the bowl is the perfect snack as you wait for your burger.
Romaine Wedge Salad
The wedge salad at Red Hook Tavern is not traditional, but I honestly think that’s the best thing about it. Instead of hacking through a quarter head of cold, iceberg lettuce with a steak knife, they plate little spears of romaine. The homemade dressing is complimented by a generous amount of bleu cheese crumbles and fresh dill. Oh - and there’s a massive slab of thick-cut bacon on top.
Fish and Chips
I’m glad Riya recommended the fish and chips because it isn’t a dish I order very frequently. The version at Red Hook Tavern is as good as I’ve ever had. The beer batter on the fish was light but satisfyingly crunchy like a slightly thicker tempura batter. Malt vinegar, a classic English pairing, goes well with the grease. So does the lemon wedge and herby, homemade tartar sauce.
Dry Aged Red Hook Tavern Burger
This burger is really, really impressive. I mean look at it. It looks like the platonic ideal of the cheeseburger, and it tastes like it too. There are zero frills here, just high quality dry aged beef, American cheese, and a round of lightly griddled white onion. The bun is perfectly toasted. The cottage fries are well-fried and puff almost like a bootlegged pommes soufflé. This was my favorite plate of food at Red Hook Tavern - despite Riya clowning me for thinking it was made with scraps from the New York Strip they serve at dinner (lmao).